In the distant past (1990s) I had the opportunity to work at the largest national wool company and one of the largest in Europe. Having been responsible for the weaving, I had the opportunity to visit some fabric fairs and to realize that, by then, the cost / m of some of our fabrics was much higher than those proposed by some of our competitors. Indeed, in some cases the cost of the raw material was identical to the selling price of our competitors.

Despite the historical proviso, the previous preamble allows us to frame a situation that still exists today for the overwhelming majority of companies belonging to the national Textile and Clothing Industry (TCI). Its production costs are higher than its main competitors, namely China, Pakistan, India, Vietnam, Bangladesh, Morocco, Romania, Ukraine, Turkey, among many others.

However, the most recent statistics show a strong TCI and with great preponderance in the National exports.

Thus, if we look for an explanation for this apparent contradiction, there are a number of factors that are leveraging the competitiveness of our companies, namely: proximity to our main markets, manufacturing small series (especially with standardization), maximum productive flexibility for short response times, quality of manufactured products, design, know-how and commitment and a lot of effort from all employees involved.

In addition, it can be seen that the great majority of the companies started, for some years ago, an evolution for so-called technical textiles and that, gradually, the entrepreneurs are differentiating their products and their collections, through the incorporation of innovative fibres that provide performance and / or properties, which with the so-called conventional fibres, per se, could not be obtained at all or at least as efficiently and economically. In this way, the range of final applications is extended and, at the same time, it opens the way to new markets with greater added value.

the entrepreneurs are differentiating their products and their collections, through the incorporation of innovative fibres

Historically, this transformation began with the introduction of unnatural and artificial fibres in the 1930s and 1940s, especially polyester, polyamide and viscose, which initiated technological change in textiles. Initially, these fibres were introduced in a low price logic and improved durability being marketed with tenacity values of approximately 5 g / dn and for some more industrial applications such as carpets, tire reinforcements and hoses around 10 g / dn. Later, in the 1970s, a second generation of fibres – high performance fibres – was developed with a high modulus and a high toughness: 20-40 gf / dn for the manufacture of composites, aerospace, marine, civil construction, ballistics, sports and personal protection equipment, medical applications, printed circuit boards, etc.

With the continuous evolution of the extrusion processes and the chemical industry, a whole new set of fibres, commonly known as superfibers, appeared on the market: aramids (aromatic polyamides), glass fibre, metal fibres, boron fibre, fluorine fibre, polyacetal, Polyethylene, Polyphenylene Sulfide (PPS), Polyetheretherketone (PEEK), PBO, etc. Which aim to provide greater chemical stability, higher thermal resistance, superior mechanical properties, high electrical insulation, etc.

At present, there is a huge range of fibres with specific functions, high technology fibres, whose intrinsic properties, given their chemical composition and / or molecular structure, or the inclusion of additives in the extrusion process, enable the production of filaments / fibres which Have superior properties than conventional ones. Typically, they can be classified into three main groups: High performance fibres with physical or chemical properties much higher than conventional fibres, namely mechanical and thermal properties, etc; Fibres of special functions that can have several purposes and are consequently subdivided into several groups: bioactive, thermoregulatory, electroconductive, maximized thermo-physiological comfort, etc. And finally fibres of high aesthetics that offer pleasant sensations to the senses and were developed mainly with the intention of emulating the properties of the natural fibres and of enhancing aesthetic valorization.

At present, there is a huge range of fibres with specific functions, high technology fibres

As a consequence of these innovations emerged a new textile industry – non-conventional – normally categorized according to the production methods used and / or the purpose of the products manufactured. 

Commonly known as technical textiles, these products are the result of major scientific and technological developments in many areas of knowledge, particularly in the chemical industry, materials engineering, microelectronics, computer science, biotechnology and nanotechnology.

In this context, and taking up the preamble, it is legitimate to think that these new fibres – the fibres of the and with future – provide the possibility of creating differentiating textile articles with high technological content and high added value. Its personalized endogenization by the TCI National companies can be a factor of increased competitiveness and contribute decisively to the survival of the company.

these new fibres - the fibres of the and with future - provide the possibility of creating differentiating textile articles with high technological content and high added value